Would You Rather: The Right or Nazare?
Big wave surfing can be split into two simple sub sections. On one hand, there are those paddleable mountains of water that are all about a critical drop and trying to get that 10’0 on rail and to the channel, (if there is one). On the other, there are those mutated, backless, heaving lumps where the goal is to enter and exit the biggest barrel without being tossed onto a rock shelf—the absolutely unpaddleable. WA hellman Zac Haynes has arguably been tackling the best, (worst for me and you) of both worlds over the last year.