Laird Hamilton Interview 5-20-16
“I think there are a certain percentage of us that in the interests of mankind have a mechanism that allows us to go against all of our cautiousness. We’re using that same mechanism that was a human condition for the evolution of our species.”
The man behind the words is Laird Hamilton, the greatest big wave surfer of all time and a pioneer in the world of board sports and beyond. He’s sitting opposite me at a small table in an inconspicuous cafe in Piha, a small coastal settlement in New Zealand.