Laird Hamilton Interview 5-20-16

“I think there are a certain percentage of us that in the interests of mankind have a mechanism that allows us to go against all of our cautiousness. We’re using that same mechanism that was a human condition for the evolution of our species.”

The man behind the words is Laird Hamilton, the greatest big wave surfer of all time and a pioneer in the world of board sports and beyond. He’s sitting opposite me at a small table in an inconspicuous cafe in Piha, a small coastal settlement in New Zealand.

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